What Are the Best Chinese Dramas for Hanfu Fashion? Costume Breakdowns from The Untamed to The Double

Chinese Dramas: The Hanfu Fashion Shows the World Is Watching

Something remarkable happened in the late 2010s. Chinese television dramas — C-dramas (中国剧) — exploded onto the global stage through streaming platforms like Netflix, Viki, and iQIYI. And audiences around the world didn't just watch the stories. They fell in love with the clothes.

The numbers tell the story. The Untamed (陈情令), which premiered in 2019, has been streamed over 10 billion times across all platforms and was ranked by Forbes as one of the most-watched dramas globally. Its costumes — from Wei Wuxian's layered black robes to Lan Wangji's ethereal white — sparked what Chinese media called a "hanfu economic boom" (汉服经济热潮). Sales of hanfu on Chinese e-commerce platforms surged 300% in the year following the show's international release.

Production budgets for costume dramas (古装剧) have followed suit. Where a major historical drama once allocated perhaps 5 million yuan (roughly $700,000) for costumes, top-tier productions in 2025 and 2026 now spend 20 to 50 million yuan ($3-7 million) on wardrobe alone. The result is television that doubles as a fashion runway for traditional Chinese clothing spanning two thousand years of history.

If you have watched any of these shows and thought, "I want to wear that," you are far from alone. The global hanfu revival movement owes a significant debt to the C-drama wave. This guide breaks down the 10 best dramas for hanu fashion inspiration, identifies which dynasty each show represents, and explains exactly how to translate what you see on screen into clothing you can actually buy and wear.

Top 10 Chinese Dramas for Hanfu Fashion

Each of these dramas offers something different — from meticulously researched historical accuracy to bold fantasy reimagining. We have ranked them by their fashion impact, variety of styles, and how useful they are as real-world hanfu inspiration.

1. The Untamed (陈情令) — The One That Started It All

Dynasty setting: Fantasy (Han/Wei-Jin inspired, 汉/魏晋风)
Streaming: Netflix, WeTV
Key styles: Yuanlingpao (圆领袍, round-collar robe), layered robes, flowing wide sleeves

No drama has done more for hanfu awareness worldwide than The Untamed. Wei Wuxian's (魏无羡) signature black and red layered robes became so iconic that Chinese hanfu brands still sell "Wei Wuxian style" (魏无羡同款) collections years after the show aired. Lan Wangji's (蓝忘机) pristine white guandao-style robes with delicate cloud-pattern Handicraft&i=884">Handicraft&i=884">embroidery established white hanfu as a mainstream aesthetic choice.

The costume design draws from early imperial Chinese aesthetics — specifically the Costume&i=762">Costume&i=762">Han Dynasty (206 BCE – 220 CE) and Wei-Jin period (220–420 CE) — but takes significant creative liberties. The crossed collars, wide sleeves, and sash belts are all historically grounded, but the layered fantasy elements (floating ribbons, extra-long trailing sleeves, supernatural accessories) are pure xianxia (仙侠, immortal hero) invention.

How to recreate the look: For Wei Wuxian's dark aesthetic, choose a black or deep red ruqun or yuanlingpao with contrasting sash. For Lan Wangji's look, go for layered white robes with blue or silver accents and a wide sash. Both looks work with cotton-linen blends for everyday wear ($60-120) or silk-blend fabrics for special occasions ($150-300). Browse the China-Cart.com hanfu collection for dark and light options in both ranges.

2. Story of Yanxi Palace (延禧攻略) — The Show That Started the Wave

Dynasty setting: Qing Dynasty (清朝, 1644–1912)
Streaming: iQIYI, Netflix (selected regions)
Key styles: Qipao predecessors, mamianqun (马面裙), elaborate hair ornaments

A technical note first: Qing Dynasty clothing is not hanfu in the strictest sense. The Manchu-led Qing government imposed dress codes that differed significantly from Han Chinese traditions. But Story of Yanxi Palace (2018) deserves its place on this list because it was the drama that ignited the current wave of interest in traditional Chinese fashion worldwide. It was the most Googled TV show of 2018 globally.

The costumes in Yanxi Palace are noteworthy for their restraint and accuracy. Unlike many Qing dramas that pile on bright colors and heavy Handicraft&i=884">Handicraft&i=884">embroidery, costume designer Song Xiaotao chose muted "Morandi palette" tones inspired by actual Qing Dynasty paintings — soft blues, dusty pinks, sage greens. The mamianqun (马面裙, horse-face skirt) worn by the concubines became a mainstream fashion item in China after the show aired.

How to recreate the look: A mamianqun paired with a fitted jacket in a muted color palette captures the Yanxi aesthetic. Focus on subtle Handicraft&i=884">Handicraft&i=884">embroidery rather than flashy patterns. China-Cart.com carries Ming-Qing style sets that achieve this refined look.

3. The Double (墨雨云间) — Song Dynasty Elegance

Dynasty setting: Song Dynasty inspired (宋朝风, 960–1279)
Streaming: Netflix, Viki
Key styles: Beizi (褙子, parallel-collar jacket), ruqun (襦裙), subdued color palettes

The Double (2024) brought Song Dynasty aesthetics to a massive international audience. The show's costume design emphasizes understated elegance — narrow sleeves, clean lines, and a color palette dominated by warm earth tones, soft greens, and muted golds. If The Untamed is hanfu's rock concert, The Double is its classical recital.

Song Dynasty style (宋制) is the most practical and wearable of all hanfu categories. The garments are closer to modern clothing in their proportions and ease of movement. The beizi (褙子), a long open-front jacket worn over a skirt or trousers, looks almost like a modern cardigan or duster coat. This is why many hanfu enthusiasts recommend Song style for daily wear.

How to recreate the look: A beizi (parallel-collar jacket) in sage green or dusty rose over a lighter-colored ruqun captures the aesthetic perfectly. Cotton-linen blends work best for the authentic matte texture. Look for sets in the $50-100 range for wearable quality, or $120-200 for silk-blend versions with subtle embroidery.

4. Joy of Life (庆余年) — Creative Dynasty Mashup

Dynasty setting: Mixed/fictional (mixes Tang, Song, and Ming elements)
Streaming: Netflix, WeTV
Key styles: Varied — from court robes to casualwear across multiple eras

Joy of Life is unique among costume dramas because its fictional world borrows freely from multiple Chinese dynasties. The result is a fascinating visual buffet of hanfu styles. One scene might feature Tang-style wide-sleeved robes (唐制大袖), the next might show Ming-style aoqun (明制袄裙), and a third could include Song-inspired casual layers.

This makes Joy of Life an excellent reference for understanding how different dynasty styles compare. Watching the show is like attending a survey course in Chinese fashion history. The variety also means that almost any hanfu style you are curious about probably appears somewhere in the show's wardrobe.

How to recreate the look: Because the show spans so many styles, pick the era that appeals to you. The protagonist Fan Xian's casual layered looks are closest to Ming Dynasty aoqun. Court scenes feature Tang-style grandeur. For a versatile starting point, try a Ming-style short ao (袄, jacket) with mamianqun in a color that matches your everyday wardrobe.

5. Word of Honor (山河令) — Wuxia Flowing Robes

Dynasty setting: Wuxia fantasy (Ming/Qing inspired, 明清风)
Streaming: Netflix, Viki, Amazon Prime
Key styles: Flowing outer robes, layered color combinations, martial-arts-ready silhouettes

Word of Honor (2021) is pure wuxia (武侠, martial arts) fashion. The costume designer created looks that needed to work in dynamic fight sequences while still looking beautiful in still frames. The result is hanfu designed for movement — robes that billow during sword fights, sashes that trail dramatically during rooftop chases, and layers that shift and reveal different colors with each motion.

Zhou Zishu's deconstructed, travel-worn layers and Wen Kexing's flamboyant, almost theatrical robes represent two opposite approaches to hanfu styling that both work beautifully in real life. The show popularized the idea that hanfu could be "cool" in a rebellious, rock-and-roll way rather than just "pretty" in a traditional sense.

How to recreate the look: For Zhou Zishu's rugged style, choose darker colors with a slightly rumpled cotton-linen texture. For Wen Kexing's dramatic flair, go for layered robes in contrasting colors (deep purple over white, or crimson over black) with a wide decorative sash. Both looks are available at China-Cart.com.

6. Love Between Fairy and Devil (苍兰诀) — Bold Fantasy Color

Dynasty setting: Fantasy xianxia (no specific dynasty)
Streaming: Netflix, iQIYI
Key styles: Vibrant saturated colors, oversized floral embroidery, ethereal layers

If The Untamed is the dark, brooding member of the C-drama family, Love Between Fairy and Devil (2022) is the one that shows up in neon. The costume design here is unapologetically bold — rich reds, electric blues, and luminous golds dominate. Orchid's (小兰花) wardrobe progresses from simple celestial-white gowns to increasingly elaborate fantasy costumes as her powers grow.

While not historically accurate by any measure, the show demonstrates how hanfu's basic construction principles — crossed collars, wrapped fronts, sash closures — can serve as a foundation for wildly creative design. The costume team reportedly used over 3,000 meters of Silk+Silk+Fabric&i=884">Fabric&i=884">Silk+Fabric&i=884">fabric across all character wardrobes.

How to recreate the look: Choose hanfu in bold, saturated colors rather than the muted tones usually recommended for beginners. A deep red or royal blue Tang-style ruqun with gold embroidery captures the spirit. Look for "fairy style" (仙女风) hanfu sets on China-Cart.com — these are designed specifically for fans who want the drama aesthetic rather than strict historical accuracy.

7. The Longest Promise (玉骨遥) — Ethereal Xianxia

Dynasty setting: Xianxia fantasy (Wei-Jin and Tang inspired, 魏晋/唐风)
Streaming: Amazon Prime, Viki, Tencent Video
Key styles: Floating layers, translucent fabrics, celestial white-and-blue palette

The Longest Promise (2023) pushed xianxia costume design further into the ethereal. The lead character Shi Ying's all-white priest robes feature layers of translucent fabric that create a glowing, otherworldly effect on camera. The show's aesthetic is built around the concept of "cold elegance" (清冷感) — an aloof, refined beauty that has become one of the most sought-after hanfu aesthetics in China.

The costume team used specialty fabrics including gradient-dyed chiffon and metallic-threaded organza to achieve effects that seem to shift color under different lighting. While these specific fabrics are hard to find at consumer prices, the overall silhouette is achievable.

How to recreate the look: Layered white or pale blue robes in lightweight fabrics like chiffon or silk-blend satin. The key is multiple thin layers rather than one heavy garment. A white inner robe, a translucent blue overlay, and a silver or white sash. Han Dynasty style crossed-collar robes in light colors provide the closest historical basis for this look.

8. Ancient Love Poetry (千古玦尘) — Divine Heavenly Hanfu

Dynasty setting: Xianxia fantasy (cosmic/divine aesthetic)
Streaming: Netflix, Viki, WeTV
Key styles: Regal gold accents, structured shoulder elements, layered ceremonial robes

Ancient Love Poetry (2021) goes beyond earthly dynasty inspiration and creates costumes for actual deities. The result is hanfu at its most regal — structured, symmetrical, and adorned with gold and jade accents that reference imperial Chinese ceremonial dress. Zhou Dongyu's costumes as Shang Gu progress from simple white divine robes to elaborate gold-trimmed ceremonial outfits.

The show's costume philosophy treats each outfit as a character in itself. As the characters gain or lose power, their wardrobes shift in color intensity, embroidery density, and structural complexity. It is a masterclass in using clothing to tell a story.

How to recreate the look: Focus on gold accents against deep red or pure white backgrounds. Look for hanfu with metallic-thread embroidery on collar edges, cuffs, and sash. Ming Dynasty style provides the structured silhouette that best matches this regal aesthetic. China-Cart.com's formal hanfu selection includes pieces with gold detailing suitable for this look.

9. Dream of Splendor (梦华录) — The Gold Standard for Historical Accuracy

Dynasty setting: Northern Song Dynasty (北宋, 960–1127)
Streaming: Netflix, Tencent Video
Key styles: Beizi (褙子), duijin ruqun (对襟襦裙), historical hair ornaments, tea ceremony attire

If you care about historical accuracy, Dream of Splendor (2022) is the benchmark. The production team consulted textile historians and referenced Song Dynasty tomb murals, scroll paintings, and surviving garment fragments to create costumes that scholars have praised for their fidelity to the period.

The show's portrayal of three women running a tea house in the Song Dynasty capital of Kaifeng (开封) showcases an entire wardrobe of practical, everyday Song-era clothing — not just formal court dress. You see working outfits, leisure wear, and special occasion attire, all rendered with careful attention to fabric weights, color availability in the period, and proper layering order.

Liu Yifei's wardrobe as Zhao Pan'er is a masterclass in Song Dynasty styling: ruqun in muted tones, beizi jackets with subtle pattern, and hair ornaments that match what archaeological evidence tells us women actually wore. This is the drama to watch if you want to understand what real hanfu looked like in daily life.

How to recreate the look: A Song-style beizi (褙子, long jacket) in sage green or warm beige over a lighter ruqun. Cotton-linen blends in period-appropriate colors. Minimal embroidery — Song Dynasty aesthetics valued subtlety over flash. A simple hair pin completes the look. This is the most historically accurate and the most practical style for daily wear.

10. The Legend of Shen Li (与凤行) — 2024's Creative Designs

Dynasty setting: Xianxia fantasy with military aesthetics
Streaming: Disney+, WeTV, Viki
Key styles: Armor-infused hanfu, structured silhouettes, bold color contrasts

The Legend of Shen Li (2024), starring Zhao Liying, introduces a fresh twist: hanfu designed for a warrior deity. The costumes blend traditional Chinese clothing construction with armor-inspired details — structured shoulder pieces, metal-accented belts, and layered construction that suggests both elegance and battlefield readiness.

What makes Shen Li's wardrobe stand out is the creative use of color to signal character development. Her initial appearance in dark, battle-ready tones gradually gives way to softer colors as her romantic storyline develops. The costume team designed over 40 distinct outfits for the two lead characters, each one telling a chapter of the story through fabric and color.

How to recreate the look: A structured Ming-style ao (袄, jacket) with contrasting inner lining color, paired with a pleated mamianqun. Choose darker base colors with one bold accent — black with crimson lining, or deep blue with gold details. Add a wide decorative belt or sash for the warrior touch. China-Cart.com offers Ming-style sets with structured silhouettes that capture this aesthetic.

Which Dynasty Does Each Drama Represent?

Not all C-drama costumes are created equal. Some are painstaking historical reproductions; others are pure fantasy. This table shows where each show falls on the accuracy spectrum.

Drama	Primary Dynasty	Key Garments	Accuracy Level
The Untamed	Han/Wei-Jin (fantasy)	Yuanlingpao, layered robes	Low — fantasy interpretation
Story of Yanxi Palace	Qing Dynasty	Mamianqun, fitted jackets	High — textile historian consulted
The Double	Song Dynasty (inspired)	Beizi, ruqun	Medium — captures Song aesthetic
Joy of Life	Mixed (Tang/Song/Ming)	Varied across episodes	Low — intentional mashup
Word of Honor	Ming/Qing (wuxia)	Flowing robes, martial layers	Low — genre-driven design
Love Between Fairy and Devil	Fantasy (no dynasty)	Layered fantasy gowns	Very low — pure imagination
The Longest Promise	Wei-Jin/Tang (fantasy)	Translucent layered robes	Low — ethereal reimagining
Ancient Love Poetry	Cosmic/divine fantasy	Ceremonial robes with gold	Very low — deity aesthetic
Dream of Splendor	Northern Song Dynasty	Beizi, duijin ruqun	Very high — research-based
The Legend of Shen Li	Fantasy (military)	Structured hanfu, armor details	Low — creative warrior aesthetic

Notice the pattern: palace dramas (宫廷剧) and slice-of-life historical shows tend toward accuracy. Xianxia (仙侠) and wuxia (武侠) fantasies prioritize visual storytelling over historical fidelity. Both approaches are valid — they just serve different purposes. If you want to understand what people actually wore, watch Dream of Splendor. If you want spectacular fashion inspiration that pushes boundaries, watch The Untamed or The Legend of Shen Li.

How to Get the Look: From Screen to Your Closet

You do not need a costume department with a multi-million dollar budget. Translating C-drama fashion into real hanfu you can wear comes down to three steps.

Step 1: Identify the Dynasty

Use the table above. Once you know which dynasty your favorite drama draws from, you know which category of hanfu to shop for. If you love Dream of Splendor's refined elegance, search for Song-style (宋制) hanfu. If The Untamed's dramatic flow is more your speed, look for Han-style (汉制) or Wei-Jin style (魏晋制) pieces.

Not sure where to start? Our hanfu FAQ explains the major dynasty categories in plain language.

Step 2: Choose the Right Garment Type

Each dynasty has its signature garments:

• Han/Wei-Jin (汉/魏晋): Shenyi (深衣, one-piece robe), quju (曲裾, curved-hem robe), zhiju (直裾, straight-hem robe)
• Tang (唐): Qixiong ruqun (齐胸襦裙, chest-high skirt), banbi (半臂, half-sleeve jacket)
• Song (宋): Beizi (褙子, long jacket), duijin ruqun (对襟襦裙)
• Ming (明): Aoqun (袄裙, jacket + skirt), mamianqun (马面裙), yesa (曳撒, ceremonial robe)

For a deeper dive into the most versatile garment type, read our guide to ruqun — the most iconic hanfu style.

Step 3: Match the Color Palette

This is where the drama-to-reality translation really happens. You do not need to replicate a costume exactly. Instead, capture the color spirit:

• The Untamed vibe: Black, deep red, white, silver
• Yanxi Palace vibe: Muted earth tones, dusty rose, sage, soft blue
• The Double vibe: Warm beige, sage green, dusty gold, soft coral
• Dream of Splendor vibe: Cream, pale green, warm brown, muted teal
• The Legend of Shen Li vibe: Black, crimson, deep blue, gold accents

Color is often more important than specific garment construction for capturing a drama's aesthetic. A simple Song-style beizi in the right sage green will evoke The Double more effectively than an elaborate but wrong-colored fantasy robe.

Specific Product Suggestions

For each major drama-inspired look, here are the key pieces to search for on China-Cart.com:

• The Untamed dark aesthetic: Black or dark red yuanlingpao or layered ruqun set. Budget: $60-150 depending on fabric.
• Dream of Splendor Song elegance: Beizi jacket + ruqun in cotton-linen blend. Budget: $50-120.
• The Double refined style: Parallel-collar jacket in sage or dusty rose over coordinating skirt. Budget: $60-130.
• Shen Li warrior look: Structured Ming-style ao with contrasting lining + pleated mamianqun. Budget: $70-180.
• General fantasy/xianxia: Layered chiffon or satin ruqun in bold colors with embroidery. Budget: $80-200.

Why Drama-Inspired Hanfu Is a Great Starting Point

If you are new to hanfu, starting with a drama-inspired look is one of the smartest approaches you can take. Here is why.

You Already Know You Love How It Looks

This sounds obvious, but it matters. Hanfu spans 3,000 years of history across dozens of distinct styles. The sheer variety can paralyze a first-time buyer. When you start with a specific drama, you have already self-selected a visual aesthetic that resonates with you. You are not shopping abstractly — you have a concrete image in your head.

The growing popularity of hanfu in the West is driven largely by this pipeline: watch drama, fall in love with the costumes, start searching for similar clothes. It is the most natural entry point into traditional Chinese fashion.

It Gives You a Specific Style to Aim For

Instead of the overwhelming question "what kind of hanfu should I buy?", drama-inspired shopping narrows it to "which Song-style beizi matches The Double?" That focused question is much easier to answer. You can compare product photos directly to screenshots from the show and make confident decisions.

This approach also helps with sizing and fabric choices. When you know the drama, you know the silhouette — which tells you whether you need the flowing, forgiving Tang style or the more structured, fitted Ming style. That directly affects what size and cut will flatter your body.

It Is a Conversation Starter

Wearing hanfu in public naturally draws attention and questions. When someone asks about your outfit, "I got the idea from The Untamed" is a much more engaging conversation opener than "it is a Ming Dynasty aoqun." Both answers are valid, but the drama connection gives people an accessible entry point into the cultural conversation.

On social media, drama-inspired hanfu content performs significantly better than generic hanfu posts. Tags linking hanfu to specific dramas generate 3-5 times more engagement, according to data from Chinese social platform Xiaohongshu (小红书). If you are sharing your hanfu journey online, the drama connection is your built-in audience hook.

The Gateway to Deeper Cultural Understanding

Most people who start with drama-inspired hanfu eventually develop a genuine interest in the history behind the clothing. You might begin because Wei Wuxian's robes look cool, but along the way you learn about the Han Dynasty, the significance of crossed-collar construction, and why the left-over-right wrapping convention exists. The drama is the gateway; the culture is the destination.

As the hanfu revival continues to grow, drama-inspired wearers are becoming some of the most knowledgeable and passionate members of the community. The shows that drew them in are also the shows that taught them to care about getting the details right.

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